Nestled in the heart of the mountains of Genjiyama in Izu-Nagaoka, this renowned inn still conveys the scent of history.「Izu Nagaoka Onsen Sanyo-so」。Built in the early Showa period as a villa for Hisaya Iwasaki, the third head of the Mitsubishi zaibatsu, this place is a special, tranquil spot where the aged architecture and vast Japanese garden intertwine. In the crisp air as the morning sun is just beginning to shine, we head from the main building's entrance to the large public bath.
The main building is a single-story structure with a hipped roof and artificial slate roofing. It is also designated as a nationally registered tangible cultural property, and as soon as you step through the entrance, you are greeted by a quiet space enveloped in the warmth of wood that has stood the test of time. Beyond the low raised threshold lies a neatly arranged tatami room. Deep wooden sliding doors line both sides, and the delicate latticework of the transoms and the orderly borders of the tatami mats exude the refined beauty characteristic of sukiya-style architecture.
A dignified golden screen stands tall. The golden background, gleaming in the soft light, depicts willows with gracefully drooping branches. Small birds rest their wings on the tips of the branches, and swallows soar lightly in the sky. At their feet, a waterside is depicted, and a white heron stands quietly, creating a tranquil scene. Enveloped in golden light, the image seems to convey the feeling of the wind and the flow of water, as if a complete landscape has unfolded before your eyes.
It is both vibrant and somehow serene, its presence subtly adding elegance to the space.
A vermilion-lacquered display stand stands quietly, adorned with an exquisitely carved vase. Each of these unassuming furnishings reflects the aesthetic sensibilities and hospitality that Sanyoso has carefully preserved. The sliding doors behind it are subtly adorned with the family crest in gold, adding a touch of elegance to the tranquil space. A perfect balance of splendor and refinement lies within, as if quietly watching over the passage of time itself in this place.
In a corner of the corridor, a set of Hina dolls with gentle expressions that herald the changing seasons is displayed, with the Emperor and Empress dolls peacefully nestled together.
The ceiling is adorned with soft, traditional Japanese-style lighting that gently illuminates the ceiling and beams, creating a calm and warm atmosphere throughout the building.
To the right of the entrance is a reception room, where, under the soft light of the ceiling, two floral-patterned sofas face each other, and a table covered with a lace tablecloth sits in the center. A delicately patterned carpet spreads across the floor. Western design elements blend naturally into the tranquil space characteristic of a Japanese house, creating a nostalgic and relaxed atmosphere.
Under a soft light, the tea room exudes a tranquil atmosphere. The hanging scroll bears the inscription "Keibai Ichida Kanbashi" (A single plum blossom in the valley, emitting a fragrant scent). This Zen phrase depicts a plum tree in a valley hidden from human eyes, quietly emitting a fragrant scent amidst the cold. It teaches that even without seeking recognition from others, one can bloom a beautiful "flower" if one lives their life wholeheartedly and with single-minded devotion, making it a popular choice for the New Year's atmosphere in tea ceremonies.
The corridor connecting the main building and the new building is adorned with photographs depicting the changing seasons of Sanyoso, allowing visitors to enjoy the beauty of nature and a relaxed atmosphere simply by walking through the building.
After passing through that space, we arrived at the large public bath and open-air bath, enveloped in the morning stillness.
There is no rotation of the men's and women's baths in the hot spring bathhouse. The indoor bath is available from 3:00 PM to 9:30 AM the following morning, and the open-air bath is available from 3:00 PM to midnight and from 6:00 AM to 9:30 AM the following morning.
The hot springs at Sanyoso are alkaline simple springs with a pH of 9.1, known as "beauty springs." They have a mild, soft texture that soothes the skin, and are said to be effective for rheumatic diseases, musculoskeletal disorders, nerve paralysis, and post-illness recovery. As you surrender yourself to the water while gazing at the garden, you'll be enveloped in a feeling of relaxation, not only in your body but also in your mind, leaving you feeling refreshed and balanced.
A morning spent in a lush, open-air bath, embraced by the soft waters. As the morning sun shines brightly, both mind and body feel lighter, creating a peaceful and enriching moment.
After my bath, as I was walking around the building, I came across the "Then and Now Photo Exhibition" being held in the "Tomoe" room of the main building.
The exhibition features numerous valuable black-and-white photographs that trace the history of Sanyo-so.
Sanyo-so opened in 1947. For over 70 years, it has welcomed countless people. The buildings and gardens depicted in the photographs somehow overlap with the scenery before our eyes today, giving us the feeling of having traveled back in time. Even as times change, there are things that this place has carefully preserved, and as we touch upon its history and background through the photographs, standing in this place feels like a very special experience.
The story of Sanyo-so has been passed down through many years. The time I was able to touch upon even a part of it remains quietly and deeply in my memory of my trip.
Izu Nagaoka Onsen Sanyo-so
Address: 270 Tamegami, Izunokuni City, Shizuoka Prefecture 410-2204
TEL: 055-947-1111
https://www.seibuprince.com/ja/sanyo-so-ryokan
