At Ishiba, meals are usually served in each guest's room, but for groups like this one (two groups of friends staying together), or for large group dinner parties (maiko from Yugawara can be arranged with prior reservation), or even if you're just having a meal without staying overnight, it seems you can dine in this room with a stage. Table seating is provided on the tatami mats, and apparently, many guests have recently been requesting table seating instead of traditional tatami. It seems that even for just two people, you can reserve this room if you book in advance!
Although it's still before dusk, candles are lit on the stage, and beyond the wooden windows, you can feel the power of nature woven by trees and rocks, creating a dignified and solemn atmosphere. Here too, B&O plays moody music to match the evening festivities.
Aperitif: "Apricot liqueur made by the proprietress"
Appetizer: "Water Shield, First Tomato, and Seasoned Vinegar"
The thick, viscous texture of Akita's water shield (junsai) is rich in vitamins, and the subtle acidity of the first tomatoes whets the appetite.
Hassun (a type of Japanese appetizer platter): "Sea bream rice dumpling sushi, sweet potato simmered in honey, fried mantis shrimp with egg yolk, Japanese angelica, hairtail fish wrapped in yawata-maki sauce, broad beans simmered in soy sauce"
The deep-fried mantis shrimp with egg yolk, and the elegantly simmered udo (Japanese spikenard) wrapped around hairtail fish, are both excellent accompaniments to drinks. The broad beans were delicious, even with the skin on.
In honor of the May festival, we offer chimaki (rice dumplings) filled with sea bream. Wrapped in fresh bamboo leaves, these chimaki are infused with the refreshing aroma of greenery.
The first of the three sakes selected by Ishiba: "Local sake from Kanagawa" 3,800 yen. This time, we ordered the three sakes selected by Ishiba to be paired with the meal.
Soup: "Wheat jelly with kudzu starch, first eggplant, okra root, yuzu citrus, and ginger"
Hata eggplant from Suruga Bay, prepared with kudzu starch. As it's the first eggplant of the season, it's bursting with youthfulness and aroma, and its gentle sweetness and melting texture spread throughout the mouth. Enjoy the subtle fragrance of yuzu blossoms, and the exquisite balance of the savory broth with a hint of ginger at the end.
This is the second of the three sakes selected by Ishiba.
Sashimi: "First bonito of the season, bigfin reef squid, and garnish"
The first bonito of the season is served seared. You can enjoy it with ponzu sauce, mustard, or soy sauce, as you like. Perhaps because I'm so used to the "mochi bonito," a specialty of Hamamatsu, this bonito itself tastes rather light. The sticky texture of the bigfin reef squid is delicious thanks to the meticulous cuts made to the surface.
Grilled dish: "Charcoal-grilled Sagami beef", Appetizer: "Tempura of wild vegetables", Final dish: "Blanched Ashitaba leaves"
The main dish of this season's recommended course, charcoal-grilled Sagami beef, is slowly grilled over charcoal until the surface is crispy, and the juices that burst forth from the inside instantly burst out. The meat has a distinctive texture that remains fibrous as you continue to chew. The bamboo shoots are also slowly grilled over charcoal. The richness of the soy sauce coating the bamboo shoots and the degree of grilling are exquisite! The tempura is served with tempura dipping sauce and grated daikon radish with ginger, and the meat is served with a sweet sansho pepper soy sauce. The mountain vegetable tempura includes Urui, Yamaudo, Ashitaba, Koshiabura, and Kogomi.
This is the third of the three sakes selected by Ishiha. Chilled sake served in a tin cup is truly delicious. All three sakes selected by Ishiha that I tried this time had a soft sweetness.
Simmered dish: "Simmered conger eel, new taro, white asparagus, and green beans"
The conger eel, simmered until tender in a clear broth, was served with Kyushu white asparagus and green beans, along with grated ginger. Although hidden in the photo, everyone smiled warmly when they saw that the young taro potatoes had also been deliciously cooked.
At Ishiba, they have a selection of wines that pair well with Japanese cuisine. This time, my friend's husband wondered, "Which wine is paired with this Japanese food?", so we decided to order some wine by the glass. Three types were served: a white "Chablis," and two reds, "Napa Valley Rindo (Purple Bell)" and "Gevrey-Chambertin."
Rice dish: "Sea snail rice"
The aroma of turban shells and the fresh scent of seasonal green peas fill the air of this kamameshi (rice cooked in a pot). One of the things I look forward to at Ishiba is the rice served in a pot. The medium-sized pot is enough for four people to have about two servings each, which is very satisfying.
A lovely waitress will serve you each dish with care.
The best thing about this pot is that it gets a light crispy crust. My friends, a married couple, are happily sharing the delicious crispy crust.
The "Akadashi" (red miso soup) and other hospitality dishes, a hallmark of Chef Sadatoshi Nakata's extensive experience training in Kyoto, are drawing to a close.
In contrast to the mild saltiness of the cooked rice, the pickles are quite salty. Perhaps this is also a matter of balance.
The dessert "Ema Strawberries with Stems" apparently means that the strawberries are picked in the morning and are fully ripe.
The sweet treat "Uiro Pea" features peas (usuimame) hidden among leaves, creating a beautiful color combination.
After enjoying a leisurely three-hour kaiseki dinner, we were treated to soothing background music in the waiting room on the first floor.
"Whiskey on the rocks"
The four of us chatted for a while, savoring the lingering memories. We enjoyed a delicious kaiseki meal at our favorite two-Michelin-starred inn with our friends, and seeing their delight, our enjoyable early summer feast came to a close. We planned to have breakfast leisurely at 8:30 after a morning bath. Next, let me tell you about our breakfast!
Click here for the table of contents of the Yugawara travelogue.
Ishiba
749-59 Miyakami, Yugawara-machi, Ashigarashimo-gun, Kanagawa Prefecture TEL: 0465-62-3808
http://www.sekiyou.com/
