As the sky turned a deep blue, the quiet light of "Izu Nagaoka Onsen Sanyo-soThe building of "[Name of building]" stands out beautifully against the night garden. As the atmosphere of a tranquil summer night, different from the deep green of the daytime, permeates the air, let's head to "Yuho," the dinner venue in the new building.
This is my second stay at Sanyo-so, following my visit in the spring. Stepping into the new building, I was greeted by the same quiet welcome as last time, which felt somehow nostalgic. Beyond the large windows, the garden was already enveloped in the atmosphere of night.
From the tatami-floored raised seating area to the delicately designed Nishijin-ori fusuma paintings, the aesthetic sensibilities of a traditional Japanese inn breathe life into every detail, creating a quiet presence without being ostentatious. Even when you visit again in a different season, Sanyo-so welcomes you quietly with its unchanging beauty. This unchanging atmosphere brings a sense of comfort that you can only feel on your second visit, and a feeling of joy as if you've come home again.
Tonight, we'll have a special dinner here to celebrate my husband's 50th birthday.
We climbed the stairs to the restaurant "Yuho".
Upon entering the "Yuho" room, you are enveloped in the scent of tatami mats and a tranquil atmosphere. The spacious 128-tatami-mat room is generously spaced, allowing you to enjoy your meal without worrying about your surroundings.
What catches the eye here is the kirikane (cut gold leaf) artwork adorning the stage wall, which I've mentioned before. It's "Mineko" by Living National Treasure Sayoko Eri. Delicate gold lines depicting the landscape of Izu shimmer quietly, adding a dignified elegance to the Japanese space. Not only the cuisine, but also the architecture, garden, crafts, and tableware are all arranged to resonate with each other, transforming the time spent dining into a beautiful experience.
A menu for August to be enjoyed with all five senses
Let the authentic kaiseki meal, featuring an abundance of summer ingredients, begin.
Just like on our previous stay, we ordered the "overflowing sparkling wine," which is poured so generously into a masu (wooden measuring cup) that it overflows. This time, without hesitation, we ordered it again. It turns out that the waitress had watched our previous TikTok video, and she was a little embarrassed but pleased to see herself in it, which made us happy too. "Let's have her make a big appearance again this time (laughs)," she said, pouring the wine so much that it almost overflowed from the masu. Watching the sparkling bubbles spill from the glass into the masu is one of the unique pleasures of this drink. These little reunions and memories accumulating are perhaps part of the joy of visiting Sanyoso for the second time.
"Overflowing Sparkling Wine"
Celebrate this milestone with a glass of sparkling wine poured to the brim.
"Seasonal vegetables"
Cream cheese tofu, marinated taro stems, octopus, sea grapes, squid with uruka dressing, boiled edamame, and matsukaze with tsuyu miso.
The menu for the day was an authentic kaiseki meal featuring an abundance of summer ingredients. First up was "Shunsai," a selection of seasonal dishes that allowed us to enjoy a little bit of each season's flavor. Dishes with different colors and appearances were beautifully arranged, with the tastes of summer packed into each plate. In a small bowl on a raised base, there was cream cheese tofu, modeled after Minazuki tofu, a traditional Kyoto confection, accompanied by red beans, offering a pleasant stickiness and mellow flavor. Next, in a temari-shaped dish, were sea grapes cultivated in the swimming pool of a former elementary school in Uchiura, Numazu. The bead-like grains were beautiful, and they had a delightful popping texture. We enjoyed them with a dashi broth poured over them.
From the refreshing texture of taro stems, to the squid mixed with ayu fish innards, to the octopus shaped like Edo-period currency placed atop the wild saxifrage, and the pine-shaped miso paste and boiled edamame, each bite offers a unique flavor that you can savor.
Summer flavors to enjoy with all five senses
Soup: "Grilled golden snapper, Mishima-grown shiitake mushrooms, water shield, small melon, green yuzu"
Next up is the "Owan" (soup). Grilled golden snapper from Shimoda is served with shiitake mushrooms from Mishima, water shield, small melon, and green yuzu. The aroma of the broth wafts up the moment you open the lid. You can taste the deliciousness of the golden snapper, and the smooth texture of the water shield, the gentle flavor of the small melon, and the refreshing scent of the green yuzu come together. An elegant bowl that goes down smoothly even on a hot summer day.
Sashimi: "Tuna, Tiger Prawn, Boiled Conger Eel, Various Side Dishes, and Iced Sake"
The sashimi platter includes tuna, kuruma prawn, and conger eel. It's a summery assortment that evokes the bounty of the Izu sea. The conger eel, a representative of summer, is prepared as a sashimi platter and served with a simmered sake made from pickled plums, bonito flakes, and sake, resulting in a refreshing taste. Enjoy the sweetness of the kuruma prawn and the umami of the tuna, each with its own unique flavor, along with the beautifully prepared garnish for the sashimi. A single plate evokes the coolness of the summer sea.
After finishing the sashimi, you gently open the inner lid to reveal boiled river crabs that can be eaten shell and all. A cute frog made from carefully carved cucumber is placed on top, and the playful presentation evokes a refreshing summer feeling.
Grilled dish: "Salt-grilled sweetfish with Hatsugami ginger and tadezu (water pepper) vinegar"
When it comes to summer kaiseki cuisine, ayu (sweetfish) is a must. On this day, the "grilled dish" was salt-grilled ayu. The ayu, grilled to a fragrant crispness and plumpness, is a dish that allows you to fully enjoy the taste of summer from head to tail. The accompanying fresh ginger and tadezu (water pepper vinegar) further enhance the flavor of the ayu. With the delicate aroma unique to river fish and the savory scent of the grilled surface, this is an impressive dish that makes you feel the essence of Japanese summer.
Chilled simmered dish with vegetable jelly topping
This chilled simmered dish is visually refreshing. Beautifully rounded, colorful balls of vegetables such as winter melon, cherry tomatoes, taro, pumpkin, carrots, and okra are served with a cool chicken consommé jelly. The cool jelly and tenderly cooked vegetables create a light and gentle flavor that makes you forget the summer heat, and the yuzu sprinkled on top adds a subtle aroma.
Main course: "Domestic beef fillet steak"
The main course was a domestic beef fillet steak. When I had it in the spring, it was served well-done, so this time I requested it to be cooked slightly rare. Thanks to that, it was moist and tender, and perfectly cooked. It was served with bell peppers, watercress, and mashed potatoes, and eaten with mustard soy sauce. The finely textured fillet had an elegant umami flavor without being heavy with fat, allowing you to savor the deliciousness of the meat itself. After a series of delicate and refined Japanese flavors, the appearance of a moderately sized steak provided a pleasant change of pace in the flow of the kaiseki meal.
Meal: Sudachi Somen noodles, corn rice, pickles.
The meal that day consisted of sudachi somen noodles, corn rice, and pickles. The somen noodles, infused with the refreshing aroma of sudachi, were perfect for a hot summer night. Their smooth texture was pleasant, and they provided a light and refreshing conclusion to the meal. The sweetness of the brightly colored corn spread throughout the rice, creating a delightful summer flavor.
Sweet treat: "Tanna Milk and Wasanbon Sugar Pudding"
The final sweet treat is a locally popular milk brand produced in the Tanna Basin of Kannami Town, located at the southern foot of Hakone in eastern Shizuoka Prefecture.Tanna Milk"And a wasanbon pudding and seasonal fruit. The smooth texture of the pudding is impressive, with the gentle sweetness of wasanbon sugar being particularly memorable. It is rich yet has an elegant aftertaste, quietly bringing the kaiseki meal to a close. And it is accompanied by watermelon, the fruit of the season. A gentle finale to this evening, in which we have been enjoying the flavors of summer little by little. Furthermore, there is a lovely message of "HAPPY BIRTHDAY!" next to the dish. This thoughtful gesture, made in honor of the owner's 50th birthday, touched my heart, and together with this dessert, it was a satisfying conclusion to the meal.
We visited Sanyo-so in the spring to celebrate our 14th wedding anniversary. This time, it was my husband's 50th birthday. The summer kaiseki meal had a different charm from the spring one. Fifty is a milestone in life. As we reflected on the years we had lived so far, we prayed that many peaceful and happy times would come in the years to come. With that wish in mind, we slowly raised our glasses of sake that evening. In this era of 100-year lifespans, fifty is exactly the halfway point. May the next 50 years that begin from here be filled with many smiles. A significant milestone in a significant place.
When I visited in the spring, the "Moon Viewing Platform" hadn't been unveiled yet. This time, it had been officially opened, and I heard that it was being used as a new venue for various events at Sanyoso, so I decided to go and take a look after my meal.
Leaving the majestic peaks, we proceed along the connecting corridor.
Moon-viewing platform
On May 13, 2026, the "Moon Viewing Platform" in the new building was restored for the first time in about 20 years and opened to the public as a new viewing spot.
As I gazed up at the sky for a while, enjoying the summer night breeze, I saw a different, serene side of Sanyo-so at night, quite different from the lush green gardens I saw during the day. I was able to conclude this special day, celebrating my 50th birthday, with delicious food, beautiful scenery, and unforgettable moments. Sanyo-so offers new discoveries and encounters every time I visit in a different season. Looking forward to returning to this place in the next season, the summer night quietly drew to a close.
Izu Nagaoka Onsen Sanyo-so
Address: 270 Tamegami, Izunokuni City, Shizuoka Prefecture 410-2204
TEL: 055-947-1111
https://www.seibuprince.com/ja/sanyo-so-ryokan
